How to Make Bagoong

Bagoong is a Philippine fermented fish or shrimp paste, essential to Filipino cuisine. Fish bagoong (bagoong isda) and shrimp bagoong (bagoong alamang) differ in texture and use. Both provide intense umami - salty, funky, and profoundly savory - used as condiment and cooking ingredient.

Category: Fish & Seafood · Method: Lactic Acid · Time: 3-12mo · Difficulty: 3/5 · Yield: varies · Temp: 25-30°C

History

Bagoong traditions predate Spanish colonization, with communities across the Philippine archipelago developing regional variations. Pangasinan is famous for bagoong, as is the Ilocos region. The paste preserved abundant fish catches and became integral to Filipino flavor profiles, appearing in dishes from kare-kare to pinakbet.

Ingredients

  • 5 lbs (2.3kg) Fresh small fish or shrimp — Anchovies for fish bagoong; tiny shrimp for alamang
  • 1-1.5 lbs Sea salt — 20-30% by weight
  • Small amount Optional: rice or rice bran — Some regions add for milder flavor

Equipment

  • Large glass or clay jar
  • Weights for pressing
  • Clean cloth cover
  • Stirring paddle
  • Storage jars

Instructions

  1. Clean and Dry

    Thoroughly wash the fish or shrimp to remove impurities. Crucially, drain the catch in a colander for at least 30-60 minutes until completely dry to the touch. Excess water will dilute the salt concentration and risk spoilage.

    Time: 1 hour

    Tip: For fish bagoong, use small species like anchovies (dilis) or round scad (galunggong). For shrimp, use tiny krill (alamang).

  2. Salting and Packing

    Mix the dried fish or shrimp with sea salt using a ratio of 1:3 or 1:4 by weight (approx. 25% salt). Pack tightly into clay jars (tapayan) or glass containers, ensuring no large air pockets remain.

    Time: 30 min

    Tip: If a reddish hue is desired, mix in a small amount of powdered 'angkak' (red yeast rice) during this stage.

  3. Fermentation

    Seal the container tightly to maintain an anaerobic environment. Store in a cool, dark place. Unlike other ferments, bagoong should be left undisturbed; do not stir, as this introduces oxygen that can lead to rancidity or mold.

    Time: 6-12 months

    Tip: Bagoong alamang (shrimp) may be ready in as little as 1-3 months, but bagoong isda (fish) requires 6-12 months for full enzymatic hydrolysis of the proteins.

Fermentation Timeline

  • Week 1-2: Initial fermentation — Salt drawing moisture. Fish or shrimp beginning to break down.
  • Month 1: Active fermentation — Strong fishy aroma. Color changing. Proteins breaking down.
  • Months 2-3: Fish bagoong ready — Fish largely dissolved. Paste forming. Strong umami.
  • Months 4-6: Shrimp bagoong ready — Pink color developed. Shrimp texture remaining. Complex flavor.

Signs of Success & Spoilage

Good signs

  • Dull grey, brownish, or pale tan color (natural)
  • Reddish-pink color (only if 'angkak' was added)
  • Strong, salty, cheese-like savory aroma
  • Liquefaction of fish (patis) forming on top
  • No signs of fuzzy mold

Warning signs

  • Putrid, ammonia-heavy, or rotten smell
  • Black or dark green discoloration
  • Surface mold (white, black, or green)
  • Slimy texture on the surface

Troubleshooting

Too salty
Cause: High salt-to-fish ratio (necessary for safety) Solution: Salt does not dissipate over time. Mellow the flavor during cooking by adding vinegar, sugar, or calamansi, or use smaller amounts as a seasoning.
Rotten smell
Cause: Insufficient salt or excess water from washing Solution: Discard immediately. Ensure fish is bone-dry before salting in future batches.
Mold on surface
Cause: Oxygen exposure or contaminated utensils Solution: Ensure the seal is airtight and the vessel was sterilized. If mold is deep, discard the batch.

Storage

Glass jars, refrigerated after opening Keeps Months refrigerated; years unopened. Flavor continues developing. Always use clean utensils.

Health Benefits

  • High protein
  • Omega-3 fatty acids
  • Minerals (calcium, phosphorus)
  • Umami amino acids
  • Used in small amounts
  • Iron content

Serving Suggestions

  • With green mango (bagoong with mangga)
  • In pinakbet and dinengdeng
  • Sautéed as ginisang bagoong
  • With kare-kare
  • As rice topping
  • In sinigang for depth

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